Shrimp suddenly die – was tun?

One or more dead animals – often shortly after a water change, a new purchase, or in hot weather. Immediately check water parameters: temperature, nitrite, GH/KH, and conductivity. Remove dead animals and ensure adequate oxygen, e.g. by increasing surface agitation or using an oxygenator. Keep future water changes small (approx. 10–20%) and temper and condition the fresh water beforehand. It is best to buy new plants as in vitro products or rinse them thoroughly beforehand. Acclimate new shrimp slowly using the drip method over 1–2 hours.

Molting problems – was tun?

Shrimp get stuck in their old shells or die during molting. Measure the total hardness (GH) and compare it with the target values for your shrimp species. If using reverse osmosis or rainwater, add a suitable mineral salt to achieve the correct hardness. Provide mineral food regularly, e.g. once or twice a week. Keep water changes small and consistent to prevent sudden fluctuations in the parameters.

Oxygen deficiency & summer heat – was tun?

In hot weather, oxygen levels in the water drop – shrimp become restless or gather at the surface. Keep the surface moving, e.g. with an air stone or an upward-facing filter outlet. Use an oxygenator – it releases oxygen without electricity and silently. Lower the temperature: open the lid, aim the fan at the water surface, and darken the room. Feed less in hot weather to prevent uneaten food from rotting.

No offspring or babies disappear – was tun?

The females carry eggs, but young are rarely seen – or they disappear after a few days. Make the filter intake shrimp-safe, e.g. with a stainless steel guard or an airlift filter. Provide plenty of moss and fine hiding places – this is where babies find protection and biofilm. Provide fine breeding or biofilm food. Avoid keeping fish in the dedicated breeding tank.

Algae in the aquarium – was tun?

Green coatings, hair algae, or slime algae – algae almost always indicate an imbalance. Limit the lighting duration to about 6–8 hours per day. Introduce more fast-growing plants – they deprive the algae of nutrients. Remove algae mechanically, e.g. with tweezers or by vacuuming them up during a water change. If the lamp is very powerful, simply increasing the distance from the water surface often helps.

Planarians and white worms – was tun?

Small white worms on the glass – not all are dangerous, but planarians certainly are to baby shrimp. Reduce the amount of food: only as much as can be eaten in about 2 hours. Offer food in a bowl and remove any leftovers. Set out a planarian trap overnight with a little food and empty it in the morning. Repeat this for several days in a row until there are hardly any worms left in the trap.

Too many snails – was tun?

Suddenly there are small snails everywhere – usually a sign of too much food. Feed less and offer the food in a bowl. Regularly remove snails and egg clutches. Leave out some vegetables overnight and remove them along with any snails in the morning. Do not use molluscicides – they will also harm your shrimp.

Skin on the water – was tun?

A dull, oily film on the surface – unsightly and detrimental to gas exchange. Increase surface agitation, e.g. by slightly angling the filter outlet upwards. Use a shrimp-safe surface skimmer. In an emergency, a sheet of kitchen paper helps: place it briefly on the surface and carefully remove it. Check the amount of food and remove any leftovers.

Cloudy water – was tun?

Milky, greenish, or yellowish – every type of cloudiness has its own cause. Significantly reduce feeding until the water is clear again. Do not clean the filter completely – the bacteria inside are needed. Carefully vacuum up sludge and debris. In case of green cloudiness, reduce the light for a few days.

Moss does not grow or washes away – was tun?

Moss comes loose, turns brown, or barely grows – often due to fastening or lighting. Tuck the moss loosely into a moss pad instead of tying or gluing it – it will simply grow through the mesh. Trim the moss regularly to prevent rot inside. Ensure gentle flow and remove brown patches. For demanding mosses, add a CO2 supply.

Shrimp pale or hidden – was tun?

The colors are dull and the animals hardly show themselves – a typical sign of stress. Provide a dark substrate, hiding places, and leaf litter. Check the water parameters and keep them stable. Feed a varied diet, including natural colorants such as carotenoids from pumpkin. Be patient after rehoming: The color often returns after a few days.

New shrimp die after being introduced – was tun?

A few days or weeks after purchasing, new or old animals die – often due to a germ intolerance. Place new animals in a small quarantine tank and observe them for 1–2 days. From day 3, add small portions of soil, leaves, and sludge from the target tank—acclimatize only the new animals, not the existing population. After 7–14 days, move them over and count them daily for the first few days. When buying, don’t just ask about water parameters; also ask the breeder about leaves, humic substances, and food.

Shrimp die after new plants – was tun?

Shortly after adding new plants, shrimp or snails are found dead in the tank. Completely remove the rock wool and clean the roots with a wet toothbrush. Place the plant in a bucket of tap water with a water conditioner for 4–5 days, changing the water daily until only a small amount remains, and recondition it. Check for decaying areas and foreign moss before placing it in the tank. Perform one or two extra small water changes in the following days. Safest option: Buy in vitro plants.

Females simply do not become pregnant – was tun?

Nutrients, food, and hiding spots are all correct – yet not a single breeding female in months. Check sex: Females are bulkier and have a saddle spot on the back of their neck. Measure pH and KH – for Caridina, a pH of 7.0 already slows reproduction. Imitate the rainy season: on a day of low-pressure rain, change 50–60% of the water, adjusted to be up to 3–4 °C cooler (Sulawesi max. 20–30%). Increase oxygen for 2–3 days, e.g., by turning up the air pump or inserting a second Oxydator catalyst. Feed predominantly high-protein food for 3–5 days – then return to normal.

Carrying female loses the eggs – was tun?

Full of eggs yesterday, empty today – or a molting with eggs still attached lies at the bottom of the pool. Change nothing during the breeding season: usual water-change schedule, usual food. No moving into tanks and no “precautionary water changes”. Optionally add a few more drops of humic substances – to prevent egg fungus. If tanks are very crowded, rehome some animals instead of separating the females.

Reproduction declines after 1–2 years – was tun?

Everything went great at first, but suddenly there’s hardly any new growth—and the soil is often depleted by the end. Test the pH: At around 7.0, bee shrimp and tiger shrimp will stop breeding. Replace the soil gradually—half and half or using a backup tank—never all at once. Work with a thinner layer in the future: around 2 cm of soil is enough, coarse at the bottom, fine on top. Use the soil as a top layer or in a removable box; then replacing it takes just a few minutes.

KH and conductivity are increasing despite water changes – was tun?

You change the water regularly, but the hardness and conductivity keep creeping up. Vinegar test: place a drop of pure concentrated vinegar on the stone. If it fizzes or bubbles, the stone contains calcium carbonate. Remove stones containing calcium carbonate from Caridina tanks and replace them with inert material such as lava rock. First, test the tap water, then choose your livestock, and finally arrange the hardscape. When using new stones, measure the KH and conductivity weekly for a few weeks.

Persistent filamentous algae (Cladophora) – was tun?

Coarse, wiry hairs that cannot be brushed out and do not disappear with a change in water. Treat infested rocks, roots, or bound plants in a separate container or dispose of them. In the tank, treat only locally, e.g. with a syringe directly on the algae, then change the water. Be careful when trimming plants – cut pieces spread the algae. Before restarting, scrub the silicone seams with a toothbrush, as the algae can even settle there.

Blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) – was tun?

Greasy, blue-green coating that smells musty and can be scraped off in shreds. Change 70–90% of the water and turn off the CO2 completely. Completely darken the tank for 7–9 days, e.g., with towels or cardboard. Change 70–80% of the water every 3 days; during this time, do not add fertilizer and only feed a small amount of leafy greens once a week. On the last day, perform another major water change and gradually increase the nutrient levels again. Afterward, ensure there is circulation in the corners.

Power outage – was tun?

Filters, lights, and heating are off—what matters now and what you’d better leave alone. For up to 2–4 hours: do nothing and do not feed under any circumstances. Use an oxygenator that releases oxygen without electricity and stir the water regularly. After more than 24 hours: continue not to feed and perform a small water change of no more than one-third. Keep a supply of water ready, e.g., old canisters with reverse osmosis water. Use generators only according to the manufacturer's instructions – LEDs and heaters are sensitive.

Vacation: Who will look after the shrimp? – was tun?

Away for a week or two? The shrimp will be fine without you—as long as you don’t overdo it beforehand. No water change or bacterial starter in the last week before vacation. Leaves as a food source: about one large Indian almond leaf per week of vacation and 20–30-liter tank. Test beforehand how long a leaf lasts. Long-lasting food such as edible caves instead of regular food. Leave a note for the helper: remove dead animals with tweezers, add a dash of humic substances, but do not change the water.

Shrimp swim wildly around the tank – was tun?

Suddenly everyone darts across the aquarium – most of the time it’s love, not panic. Look closely: If mainly the males are swimming, it is mating behavior. For safety, measure nitrite, temperature, and conductivity. Change nothing and look for gravid females over the next few days. If the animals twitch or lie on their backs, the case of "shrimp suddenly dying" applies.

Shrimp has lost legs or antennae – was tun?

A leg is missing, the antenna is broken off, or there are dark spots at the break. Don't panic: legs, antennae and swimmerets usually grow back after 2–3 molts. Leave shrimp with 1–2 missing legs in the tank. Place badly injured animals in a hanging box in the same tank and add a leaf. During the recovery phase, feed little protein; leafy greens and vegetables are preferable.

Snails eat the plants – was tun?

Holes in the leaves or entire plants gone – usually it’s hunger behind it, not malice. Finger test: Rub a leaf between your fingers. If it breaks, it’s snail food—better to choose broad-leaved plants like Anubias or Bucephalandra instead. Place the plants higher up, e.g. on top of the roots. Provide a food depot of leaves and snail food, and don’t keep the tank too clean. If there are too many snails, rehome some—supplementary feeding will no longer be enough.

New shrimp are not eating – was tun?

Catch-and-release fish especially tend to ignore the food – no need to panic as long as they look healthy. Feed only a little at first and offer leaves as a base – Indian almond leaves are best accepted. After 2–3 weeks, add small amounts of regular food. Trick: Mix the food with a little water to form a paste and spread it on a piece of Indian almond leaf. When buying, ask whether the animals are hardy eaters.

ShrimpPuddle Problem Solver

What is going on in your pelvis?

Do you need quick help with a problem in your tank – and are tired of generic answers that all sound the same? We wrote this troubleshooting guide ourselves, drawing on 20 years of experience in aquatics and shrimp keeping, with real-life insights from Nils' own tanks – including the mistakes we learned from. Choose your problem and find out what's wrong and what you can do right away in just two minutes.

Shrimp suddenly dieAkutOne or more dead animals – often shortly after a water change, a new purchase, or in hot weather.
Molting problemsAkutShrimp get stuck in their old shells or die during molting.
Oxygen deficiency & summer heatAkutIn hot weather, oxygen levels in the water drop – shrimp become restless or gather at the surface.
No offspring or babies disappearThe females carry eggs, but young are rarely seen – or they disappear after a few days.
Algae in the aquariumGreen coatings, hair algae, or slime algae – algae almost always indicate an imbalance.
Planarians and white wormsSmall white worms on the glass – not all are dangerous, but planarians certainly are to baby shrimp.
Too many snailsSuddenly there are small snails everywhere – usually a sign of too much food.
Skin on the waterA dull, oily film on the surface – unsightly and detrimental to gas exchange.
Cloudy waterMilky, greenish, or yellowish – every type of cloudiness has its own cause.
Moss does not grow or washes awayMoss comes loose, turns brown, or barely grows – often due to fastening or lighting.
Shrimp pale or hiddenThe colors are dull and the animals hardly show themselves – a typical sign of stress.
New shrimp die after being introducedAkutA few days or weeks after purchasing, new or old animals die – often due to a germ intolerance.
Shrimp die after new plantsAkutShortly after adding new plants, shrimp or snails are found dead in the tank.
Females simply do not become pregnantNutrients, food, and hiding spots are all correct – yet not a single breeding female in months.
Carrying female loses the eggsFull of eggs yesterday, empty today – or a molting with eggs still attached lies at the bottom of the pool.
Reproduction declines after 1–2 yearsEverything went great at first, but suddenly there’s hardly any new growth—and the soil is often depleted by the end.
KH and conductivity are increasing despite water changesYou change the water regularly, but the hardness and conductivity keep creeping up.
Persistent filamentous algae (Cladophora)Coarse, wiry hairs that cannot be brushed out and do not disappear with a change in water.
Blue-green algae (cyanobacteria)Greasy, blue-green coating that smells musty and can be scraped off in shreds.
Power outageAkutFilters, lights, and heating are off—what matters now and what you’d better leave alone.
Vacation: Who will look after the shrimp?Away for a week or two? The shrimp will be fine without you—as long as you don’t overdo it beforehand.
Shrimp swim wildly around the tankSuddenly everyone darts across the aquarium – most of the time it’s love, not panic.
Shrimp has lost legs or antennaeA leg is missing, the antenna is broken off, or there are dark spots at the break.
Snails eat the plantsHoles in the leaves or entire plants gone – usually it’s hunger behind it, not malice.
New shrimp are not eatingCatch-and-release fish especially tend to ignore the food – no need to panic as long as they look healthy.
Dazu haben wir noch keinen Eintrag – schreib uns gerne, wir helfen persönlich weiter.

Select your problem on the left

You’ll get the signs, typical causes, a step-by-step solution, and a tip from our own breeding program—just as we experienced it ourselves in the tank.